Sunday's Meat Sauce (Sunday Gravy If Italian)

Sunday's Meat Sauce
(Sunday Gravy If Italian)
Chef's notes

Sunday was all about family getting together, laughing, talking, and feasting for hours. Mom usually made fresh homemade ravioli the day before. I loved helping her. It was my job to crimp the edges once they were filled and formed. She would air dry them overnight on her "pasta" board. 

It always was the day's favorite course, mom's ravioli and a bowl of traditional pasta, both served with her hardy "gravy" (Italian's name for red meat sauce). It was an array of meats simmering in tomato sauce for hours; mild and hot Italian sausages, meatballs, and a variety of beef, pork, veal and pig skin braciola. She often added veal shank, the most tender of all the cooked meats. 

Multiple platters filled with these elaborate meats accompanied the pasta along with bowls of additional gravy and freshly grated well aged imported parmigiana and Romano cheeses. Everything served prior and after was spectacular, but this always was best. Mom would say, "don't each too much, you won't have room for the main course"; the best of problems to have! 

My family made meatballs exclusively with ground beef. Although fashionable to add other types of meats, mom claimed that beef offered the best favor. Other meats were already in her sauce.

Proportions of beef, eggs and breadcrumbs will determine the texture of meatballs. I find a ratio of 1 pound of ground with 3 eggs and enough breadcrumbs (about a cup) gives them the right texture. Meatballs made with fewer eggs and corresponding breadcrumbs cook too hard. 

Braciola is simply flat meat, pounded to roughly a 1/4 inch, stuffed, rolled and tied with butcher's twine. Like everything else Italian, exact ingredients vary among families, but most include lots of chopped parsley, grated parmigiana and/or Romano cheeses and often include slices of prosciutto, or small hunks of Abruzzi sausage, imported pepperoni, or salami. Some also added sliced hard-boiled egg (we didn't).

For beginners, I would recommend a sauce made with meatballs, sausages and pork braciola. You could make it even easier by substituting the pork braciola with several country style pork ribs, but you would miss a real treat.

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Sunday's Meat Sauce (Sunday Gravy If Italian)

Ingredients

Sauce

  • Olive oil
  • 1 sliced medium onion
  • 4 or 5 large garlic cloves sliced
  • 1 small 6-oz. can tomato paste
  • 4 large 28-oz. cans plain Italian ground peeled tomatoes
  • 1 cup loosely packed fresh basil chopped *
  • 2 tablespoons dried oregano or Italian seasoning
  • 1 cup of dry red wine (optional)

Italian Sausages

  • 8 or more mild Italian sausages 

Meatballs

  • 1 - 1 1/4-pound ground beef
  • 3 large eggs slightly whisked
  • 1 cup or more Italian style bread crumbs
  •  1/4 cup chopped fresh flat Italian parsley
  • 1/4 cup grated parmigiana cheese

Pork Braciole

  • equivalent of 3-1/4" thick flat pieces of pork about 8" x 6"
  • chopped fresh flat Italian parsley
  • dried Italian sausage or salami (Abruzzi sausage, imported whole pepperoni, Genoa salami) cubed about 1/4 inch
  • finely chopped garlic
  • grated parmigiana cheese
  • butcher's twine

*Instead of basil leaves, you can use a "bouquet garni". Tie several stems of basil leaves with butchers twine. Remove after the sauce is finished. Cooking will extract the flavor without leaves in the finished sauce.

Lucia always said you can never have too much basil in her "gravy".

Instructions

  1. Start with a heavy sauce pan large enough to hold all ingredients. We always called it the flavor pot because everything following will be made in that pot and nothing escapes.

  2. Sauté sliced onions in a generous amount of olive oil. Discard them from pot when translucent. Add garlic slices. Cook them until slightly tanned being careful not to burn them. Also discard. Remove the pot from the heat.

  3. Pork braciole, if needed, pound the pork between wax paper until it is about 1/4 inch thick. Brush inside surface with olive oil. Generously spread cubed Abruzzi sausage, pepperoni or salami over the surface within a half inch of external edges. Spread the remaining ingredients, parseley, garlic and cheese. Starting with the longer and most irregular edge, tightly roll each as best you can. Tie the pork about every 2 1/2 inches.

  4. Meatballs, add all the ingredients except for the Italian style bread crumbs. Wearing surgical gloves, mix ingredients by hand until combined. Mix in the bread crumbs a little at a time. It is ready when you can form a solid meatball. Form meatballs into 2 to 2 1/4 inches in diameter balls. 

  5. Return the pan to the stove over medium heat. Starting with the meatballs, cook each in the oil, rotating them as they brown until cooked through. Place meatballs in a dish and refrigerate. They will be the last item submerged in the sauce for the last hour of simmering. 

  6. Fry each of the braciole, turning as they brown. When cooked through, remove them to a holding bowl. Cook the sausages the same way and remove to the bowl.

  7. Stir the tomato paste and the dried oregano/Italian seasoning to the flavor pot. (Tip: Using a can opener, cut both the top and bottom of the paste can. Discard one end and push the paste through with the other top.). Stir the paste until it glistens with the oil, about 2 minutes.

  8. Stir in four cans of the ground tomato, wine, and fresh basil making sure everything is mixed well. Stir frequently over medium heat until it reaches a simmer. Gently stir in the braciole and the sausages and simmer with the top ajar. 

  9. It is very important to set the heat just high enough to maintain a simmer yet not burn the sauce on the bottom of the pot. Stirring frequently helps. If the bottom of the sauce does burn, do not scrape the pan, releasing the burnt sauce into the gravy. It will ruin the sauce. Either transfer the contents to another pot or continue cooking and gently stir without disturbing the burnt bottom.

  10. In about 3 hours, add the meatballs and continue simmering for at least another hour. Add water as needed. Scoop up and taste a meatball to make sure it's soft and ready. If so, it's done. Enjoy the meatball. You deserve it! 
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